The Northeast of Thailand, a vast plateau covering nearly one third of the country, is usually known as Isan. It extends northwards to the Mekong River which divides Thailand from Laos, and to the south and it ends at the Dong Rek mountain range along the border with Cambodia.

It is known to be an arid region with soil of poor quality, but for tourism, Isan is one of the country’s most intriguing destinations with many Stone Age and Bronze Age dwellings and artifacts, and several significant temples that are a legacy of the great Khmer empire.

The sandstone shrines are popular tourist attractions, particularly the superbly restored sites at the historical parks of Phimai in Nakhon Ratchasima and Phanom Rung in Buri Ram. The great temple complex at Khao Phra Viharn in Si Sa Ket on the border with Cambodian is now accessible to visitors after a long period of isolation.

The Bronze Age settlements at Ban Chiang in the province of Udon Thani provide fascinating evidence of the work of the local potters some 5,000 years ago. The red and white pottery with characteristic “fingerprint” designs are thought to be the first earthenware vessels known to man.

Two of Thailand’s best-loved national parks, Khao Yai, Phu Kradung and Phu Rua in Loei, are in Isan. Other major attractions include the villages in Khorat and Khon Kaen where the beautiful local silk is woven by hand.

Isan is a comparatively poor region whose main income is from agriculture, and many of the younger people in the villages migrate to the city. But Isan folk have a distinctive character and dialect and a vigorous culture, with their old traditions still reflected in the many festivals unique to the region.

With its strategic position bordering Laos and Cambodia, Isan has in recent years risen to become a useful starting point for adventurous journeys to destinations along the mighty Mekong River. There have been important developments in infrastructure to accommodate what is expected to be a boom in tourism.

Travel in the region has been improved by domestic airlines with regular flights to regional airports; and it is no longer impossible to find luxury accommodation, especially in large provinces of Khon Kaen, Udon Thani, Nakhon Ratchasima and Ubon Ratchathani.

Northeastern Region Buriram, Chaiyaphum, Kalasin, Khon Kaen, Loei, Maha Sarakham, Mukdahan, Nakhon Phanom, Nakhon Ratchasima, Nong Khai, Roi-Et, Sakhon Nakhon, Si Sa Ket, Surin, Ubon Ratchathani, Udon Thani, Yasothon

Khon Kaen is the commercial, administrative and educational centre of the Northeast, which is often used by travellers as a base for visiting many parts of upper Isan.

Khon Kaen National Museum houses objects from the Dvaravati period and bronze sculptures from Ban Chiang. Kaen Nakhon Lake in the centre of town is a popular spot for picnics and dining, while Wat That on its bank features typical Isan spires.

Khon Kaen is the centre of the northeastern silk industry with numerous villages producing their own mudmee designs. Chonnabot is noted for its quality silks. Every December the city hosts a Silk Fair, when all the best materials are on sale.

Unusual animals are popular in the province, with the cobra and the turtle villages high on tourist programmes. In both villages, the residents live with their proteges, training them and putting on fascinating shows. A dinosaur is the provincial- symbol ever since remains of these great beasts were unearthed in Phu Wiang National Park, an area also famous for its flora, fauna and waterfalls.

Nakhon Ratchasima (also known as Khorat) is considered the gateway into the Northeast. There are a number of fascinat ing attractions, with the best known being Khao Yai National Park.

Covering four provinces, this popular park is a forested sand stone plateau, packed with an enormous variety of animals, birds and flora. Numerous hiking trails crisscross the park and there are 20 waterfalls to visit, including the spectacular Heo Narok and Heo Sawat.

The Khmers made Khorat their home, building the superb sanctuary at Phimai that has been beautifully restored as a Historical Park. The main structure is a tall tower (prasat) surrounded by four porches and antichambers. There's lots of intricate sandstone carvings and a small museum of relics unearthed during restoration. Another historical site is found at Ban Prasat on the way to Khon Kaen. Archaeological digs have unearthed skeletons, artifacts and pottery dating back 3,000 years.

Khorat is well known for its villagers - skill in silk weaving. The best fabrics are produced in Pak Thong Chai. Other skills are shown at Dan Kwian, a village noted for its unique pottery made from a special clay found in the area.

This province is a major commercial centre in the Northeast due to its proximity to Laos and Cambodia. It was an American airbase during the Vietnam War and has continued to grow in prosperity since then. The town is renowned for its superbly carved wax candles that are paraded through town at the beginning of Buddhist Lent.

The National Museum gives a good insight into the history of the province, displaying Khmer and Thai artifacts as well as local handicrafts, traditional costumes and pictures of farm life. Its most notable temples include Wat Tung Sri Muang, housing a Buddha footprint, a marvellous old wooden library and erotic wall paintings. Wat Supatanaram has an open-air museum displaying some. Chinesestyle Buddhas and priceless frescos, while Wat Nong Bua is the only temple in Thailand with a Buddha gaya-style pyramidal stupa.

Outside of town, Wat Nong Pa Phong is the forest temple founded by Phra Acharn Cha, whose ashes are in the lovely chedi. Nearby is Wat Pa Nanachat, the retreat begun by Acharn Cha as meditation centre for foreign monks.

Khong Chiam is at the confluence of the Moon and Mekong rivers, facing Laos. Here you can catch boats to the popular Tana Rapids. To the north are the Pha Taem cliffs overlooking the Mekong, with their famed prehistoric paintings.

Udon Thani is an agricultural and transport centre for northern Isan. Just outside of town, the Udon Sunshine Orchid Garden grows fragrant orchids for sale, as well as their perfumes.

The province's main claim to fame is Ban Chiang, an important archaeological site, with pots and other items unearthed that are from 4,000 to 7,500 years old. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1992 and is a National Museum, part showing exhibits from the excavations, including a great deal of pottery and the second part an open museum around the actual archaeological digs.

Phu Phra Bat Historical Park is a fascinating place of unusual rocks, caves and prehistoric cliff paintings. Lots of trails for trekkers to follow.

Nong Khai is a long thin province running along the Mekong River, providing the main access to Laos. Originally people went by boat from Tha Sadet, but the building of the Friendship Bridge across the Mekong has made Nong Khai a major centre for transport and trade with Laos.

Attractions include Wat Pho Chai, renowned for its large seated Buddha believed to have been cast in Lan Chang, and Phra That Nong Khai, an old chedi that slipped into the river and can now only be seen completely in the dry season.

Sala Kaew Ku is a bizarre sculpture garden packed with statues of Shiva, Vishnu and Buddha as well as many other figures from Hindu and Thai culture. Phu Wua Wildlife Sanctuary near the Mekong River contains a number of beautiful waterfalls.

Surin is world-renowned for its Elephant Round-up, held on the third weekend in November, putting a focus on the province's heritage of raising and training elephants. The fair features pageants, elephant football, tug-of-war and other fun events. After the fair, the elephants go to live in villages like Ban Ta Klang, where the Suay people live and work with their jumbos, welcoming visitors to watch their daily activities.

Like many of the Cambodia border provinces, Surin has numerous Khmer ruins. Recently restored is the 11th

Yasothon is famous for its boisterous Rocket Festival every May, when giant home-made missiles are launched into the air in a symbolic rainmaking gesture.

In the town at Wat Mahathat, Phra That Yasothon is a much-visited Lao-style chedi, said to be over 1,200 years old. It enshrines holy relics of Phra Ananda, one of Lord Buddha's chief disciples. That Kong Khao Noi is an ancient Khmer chedi with a much revered brick and stucco Buddha that is ritually bathed every April. The handicraft village of Ban Si Than is famed for the triangular pillows used in most Thai households.